Monday, 22 January 2018

22ND JAN. Mon. Silk Weaving and Local Street Scenes

I'd read that this area is famous for silk production (small scale/cottage industries) so when we were approached by a local guy asking if we'd like to see his 'house' where he had a small business supplying shops with sari lengths.

His house was in a small group of similar properties and each had lines outside with lengths of raw silk drying after being dyed with beautiful colours



After removing shoes (of course) we were shown into the centre section of the house which was almost fully taken up with the loom.   The lady operating the loom was very deft but we were told it takes between 4 and 5 days to complete an average saree and up to 15 days for a wedding saree.    A Saree length is approx 5 metres.

As with the ladies weaving cotton (earlier post) the weaver sits on the floor with her feet operating pedals which are in a 'hole' below floor level








Slight technical hitch being sorted here.   This saree length is being made to fulfil a shop order and the pattern is provided by the designer by way of these punched cards







The coloured threads are silk and the gold is real gold thread so any mistakes would be costly.

The silk comes from Karnataka which borders Tamil Nadu (where we are at the moment).  Because of its favourable climatic conditions its perfect for mulberry cultivation/silk worm rearing




The front section of the house had a bench and a cupboard from where the boss lady produced length after length of silk saree fabric to show us.   Whilst it was really beautiful I wasn't in the market but undeterred she bought out a couple of boxes of scarf lengths and I succumbed.   Heaven knows, I'm not a scarf person but its good to support these local industries and I'd rather buy from somebody like this than the Govt. approved outlets where the prices are hiked up.

I could just see past the loom into another section which appeared to be the cooking/living area of the house with another entrance onto the back street.    All the houses seemed to be narrow and long like this so they really are 'cottage industries'.

I think Joshy realised we didn't want to see any more temples so we agreed that he would drop us off in the town for a wander around on our own. 

A few pics of things that took my fancy

Cow ignoring the 'No Parking' sign


Some of the largest cauliflowers I've ever seen


flower wholesaler  - looking as bright as the marigold flowers he was selling



a very gallant gent who presented me with this beautiful bloom


Roses, marigolds and jasmine flowers on sale


Garland maker = these are offerings for the gods in the temple(s)


aspiring Bollywood actor wanted his photo taken


We were very hot and took shelter in the outer courtyard of a temple and came across this lovely elephant who had been trained to sway from side to side to make the necklace bells rings.   If given a gift of greens or sugarcane she gracefully accepted and ate them. 

If given money she deftly bestowed a blessing on the donor (tapping them on the head with her trunk) and passed the cash to the man at her side.

I'm really not sure how I feel about this.   But I have to say the elephant was in very good condition and seemed happy enough if a trifle bored.    Its got to be easier than carrying human passengers up steep slopes to  visit historic sites (Amber fort at Jaipur springs to mind) but it seems almost circus like and made me a bit uncomfortable.





One of the many shops selling brass and other metal statuettes.    This guy was chipping away at the outer mould with a hammer and chisel whilst his colleagues were busy painting and polishing others.




Tomorrow we will make our way slowly towards  Pondicherry, stopping off to see a couple more temples  (one of which I know closes from Noon till 4pm so we may just be lucky and get there too late to enter)!

We are planning to do a mangrove boat tour at Chidambaram - another thing Joshy is slightly unhappy about.   I read reviews saying that the trip is only really interesting if you bung the boatman a bribe to take you 'off piste' into the side waters where you'll see more birdlife.

When I told Joshy last year we wanted to do this boat ride he said he'd had bad feedback from clients in the past.     I'm assuming his clients were booked via travel agents who tend not to take 'risks'.    We want to make up our own minds.    Joshy could be right of course but it something we fancy and he's accepted that ... grudgingly! 

We will need to stay overnight at Chidambaram

Watch this space ...

4 comments:

  1. The sari making is very interesting, I'd love to have one although God only knows what I'd do with it! I do love the beautiful garlands, so pretty. Have to say I'm with you on the subject of the elephant, just reading about made me feel a bit uncomfortable.

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  2. I just love the vibrant colours of the silks and cottons out here. When we met Jody recently she was wearing 'harem' trousers made from recycled sarees. She knows a company that specialises - they're very pretty. Perhaps you could ask her for details?

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  3. The loom looks like the ones in a label mill where I used to work over 40 years ago!!! I didn't run them (worked in the office)but they were fairly noisy and it was fascinating to watch the operators 'string' the loom.

    The silk colors are gorgeous - so jewel-like! The scarf lengths you bought will be great reminders of your trip.

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  4. I just loved the silks Jan. So many places here offer speedy dressmaking but I haven't put it to the test - I think it would be far cheaper than having the material made up in the UK ... maybe something for next visit. I settled for a couple of scarves and will just have to learn how to wear them gracefully - mine always end up in a tangled mess round my neck

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